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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred names. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m completely astonished,” remarks a family member, alluding to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest shop securing such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has kept much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.